Last week I looked at the Stormtroopers; this week, it is the turn of the Rebels.
As with the Stormtroopers, the core set comes with 14 Rebel Trooper miniatures in 7 different poses.
Basic Rebel Troopers
MPL-57 Ion Trooper
A standard unit of Rebel Troopers includes 4 models and costs 40. An extra standard Trooper can be added for 10 points and a single heavy weapon Trooper can also be included; either the MPL-57 Ion Trooper or the Z-6 Trooper, at 32 or 22 points respectively.
A gear and grenade upgrade can also be added to the unit, but from the core set you only get the choice of Targeting scopes and Concussion grenades. The scopes are a worthy upgrade here, as the unit gains the ‘Precise 1’ benefit – when you spend an aim token, reroll up to 1 additional die – the grenades, however, may not be worth spending the 5 points on. The Troopers already use a single black die in attack, so the only advantage the grenades confer for the Rebel Troopers is that cover is ignored, so it may depend upon the terrain you are playing as to whether to include them or not.
As with the Stormtroopers, deciding which of the two heavy weapon Troopers to equip will come down to personal strategy and the make up of your opposing forces.
The Z-6 Trooper, though it uses the lowly white dice, can be a formidable weapon against infantry, and is a reasonable cost.
The MPL-57 Ion Trooper, on the other hand, is the one you want if you’re up against a lot vehicles – It has ‘Impact 1’, enabling 1 standard hit to be upgraded to a critical, and inflicts an Ion token on any vehicle hit by this weapon. (Ion tokens cause a vehicle to lose an action.) It also needs to be readied again after use by preforming a recover action.
Both heavy Weapons lack the range of the Stormtrooper heavies, but the standard troopers use a black die for attack over the Stormtroopers white one, and with their defensive surge – change surge results to block – as well as the ‘Nimble’ ability, the defensiveness of the unit should allow them to get into range.
Once again I painted these with reference to Sorastro’s painting guides, with a few slight deviations in the colours used, and I’m very pleased with the results.
I painted all the figures in one batch, something I would never do again, as painting the basecoats one after another, was dreary to say the least – all that green!
Here’s a quick overview of the process.
I started by priming the figures black, followed by a spray of white from above to give some natural highlighting; this was done using Vallejo primer and an airbrush.
For the flesh I used two different shades – Vallejo’s Tan and Dark Fleshtone – which were later washed and highlighted. The Duros’ face was painted using Heavy blue and Dead flesh, wet blended together – again these were washed and highlighted at a later stage.
The top of the hats and any exposed shirts were based with Deck Tan, and the band around the hat with German Uniform. A mix of Gunmetal and German Grey was then used for all the weapons, boots, and a few of the other ancillary parts of the uniform.
The belts and straps were painted with Earth, and then to the main uniform a basecoat of Camouflage Green was applied, and boy, when you do all the miniature in one go, that’s a lot of green!
The Z-6 models I used two different colours for their jackets, Heavy Brown and Heavy Blue grey.
For the gloves I used Heavy Khaki, though I think I should have gone a shade lighter as they’re too close to the rest of the uniform.
The flesh was all shaded using Flesh Wash, other than for the Duros, which I used a Blue Wash for. It was then highlighted using the original basecoat, followed by a lighter mix of that colour – usually mixed with Ivory.
I also used Ivory for the eyes, and then dotted them with German Grey, something that required a very steady hand!
I then did the ‘camo’ pattern on the uniforms, which is applied by washing the area with water first, and then dabbing on the colour. The dabbed on paint is dispersed by the wet surface giving a nice, realistic pattern. You do this with every colour you apply. First off I used Heavy Green, then Heavy Khaki, followed by Beauty Brown.
After a first application of all the above colours, I realised I hadn’t applied them densely enough, so I repeated the steps to add a little more of each colour. It really was trial and error, but the final effect is actually quite good, and a variety of colours could be used in this way to obtain different types of camouflage finish.
The camouflage areas were then shaded using a mix of Green and Umber washes, and Citadel’s Nuln Oil was used for the metallic parts and the boots and gators. For the belts and straps Nuln oil was mixed with Umber Wash, which was then thinned with a glaze medium, and applied to the pale items of clothing, including the hat.
The majority of the highlighting was carried out by using the base colours gradually lightened with Ivory, however, for the weapons I just dry brushed with Gunmetal followed by a very light brush of chainmail.
Finally I added some weathering using Citadel’s Typhus Corrosion. This I applied using an old brush, dabbing it here and there, concentrating on the boots, gators, trouser bottoms and the bottom of the leaders long coat. This gave the appearance of mud, which for the most part is difficult to discern from the camouflage pattern.
All the miniatures were based using the same method I used on the Stormtroopers, in fact I did them at the same time, and finally several thin coats of Vallejo’s Mecha Matt Varnish were sprayed on using an airbrush.
In the end…
Once I got passed the stage of applying all that green, I enjoyed painting these figures. Things really start to come to life when you start shading and highlighting, and I thought the method of camouflaging was great, and a useful tool to remember.
My hand skills, especially accuracy, have improved no end, and I think these are the first miniatures I’ve painted that reflect that improvement.
I put most of my improvement down to a more regular painting schedule – practice makes perfect – though this has come as with the negative of reduced gaming time; you can’t win ’em all!
Also, having a magnifier has helped no end; it’s amazing how shoddy something can look when you paint under a magnifier, then you look at it in the flesh and think, ‘wow’, did I do that!
So, it will be Mr Vader’s turn next, as he is already complete, then on to the AT-RT or Luke, both of which are in progress, that will just leave the Speedbikes, and I might even get the game to the table then!